Off the tourist trail between Osaka and Wakayama

Discover ancient sacred mountain temples, World heritage forest pilgrim trails and hot-springs, and breathtaking gorges.

Japan's natural beauty is as diverse as its culture. From mossy forests to serene coastlines.

Last autumn we hired a car just outside of Osaka, and drove through the picturesque rural mountainous roads to Nachikatsuura on the Wakayama coastline, via historical Koyasan, exploring the Kumano Koda trail region over five spectacular days.

First destination was a traditional small home ryokan about a 20min, might I say "hairy", ( very narrow super windy hair pin turn roads), mountain drive to the heart of historical, serene, Koyasan. Kōyasan is a sacred mountain settlement in Wakayama, founded in 816 by the monk Kūkai as the centre of Shingon Buddhism. Rather than a single temple, it is a quiet town of more than a hundred temples set among cedar forests and mossy stone paths. For over twelve centuries, it has been a place of study, pilgrimage, and retreat, where tradition, ritual, and daily life continue to this day.

Travellers and visitors can also opt for a unique temple stay for that optimum cultural and spiritual experience, and I definately plan to return one visit and take that opportunity.

Koyasan, Koya, Wakayama

Images: Lisa Butler

Back on the road we drove past stunning emerald and aqua green rivers and water ways, some of which have volcanic hot spring water flowing just beneath the river stones. We continued on to our seaside onsen hotel in Ki-Katsuura, that would be our relaxing base for the next three days. So comfortable as there were two hot spring onsens, one of them outdoors by the edge of the bay you can hear the waves lapping up on the rocks as you bathed, and we each had our own room with a view of the sea. From here we could easily explore the areas of the World Heritage Kumano Kodo trail, an ancient network of pilgrimage trails winding through the mountains of the Kii Peninsula. Walked for over a thousand years by emperors, monks, and common pilgrims alike, it connects sacred shrines, forest, rivers, and small villages, inviting a slower pace and a quiet, reflective journey through Japan’s spiritual landscape.

Ki-Katsuura & the Kumano Kodo trail areas

Images: Lisa Butler

Among the areas we explored were, Nachi falls which is said to be the highest waterfall in Japan, (sadly the iconic Nachi pagoda was covered in scaffolding for repairs when we were there, imagine a tall striking vermillion Buddhist multi tiered pagoda with green mountains and a huge waterfall as it's accompanying backdrop). But the views out to sea from the top of the steep ascent to the temples, were breathtaking, and the peaceful walk through centurian cedars to the base of the falls was all worth it. Not far down the mountain is one of the Kumano Kodo trail entrances, where even just a few meters in, the pure and humbling energy from the ancient trees can be felt, some of which are literally 1000's of years old.

Bathing in one of the hot spring onsens at Yuomine onsen is a must when visiting the area. Yuomine was the site for one of the oldest hot spring sources in Japan dating back almost 2000 years, and the only World Heritage listed hot spring. Pilgrims of the Kumano Kodo trail would bath in the small mineral rich Tsuboyu onsen as a purification ritual before visiting the shrines.

From Yuomine, a scenic 30 minute drive to the majestic and superbly breathtaking Doro Kyo Gorge was the highlight of the trip for me. Imagine a misty atmosphere with gentle richly scented rain, standing by a traditional old Japanese teahouse perched gracefully atop the rocky cliffs of a deep autumnal and green winding gorge, with the most emerald of rivers meandering below....simply stunning, and we were the only people there, it doesn't get much more peaceful and magical than that.

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Doro Kyo Gorge, Shingu, Wakayama

Video: Lisa Butler

Tips for Exploring Lesser-Known Spots

To make the most of your journey through Japan's hidden temples and nature spots, consider these practical tips:

• Plan Ahead: Research the locations and check for any seasonal events or festivals that may enhance your visit.

• Travel Off-Peak: Visiting during off-peak seasons can provide a more peaceful experience and allow you to enjoy the beauty without the crowds.

• Respect Local Customs: When visiting temples and natural sites, be mindful of local customs and etiquette. This includes dressing appropriately and maintaining a respectful demeanor.